The following situations are a guide to detirmine if service is needed

As always, feel free to call and schedule an appointment at anytime

There are several reasons an icemaker can stop producing ice. You must first detirmine whether this is due to lack of water to the ice maker or the ice maker itself gets water but will not dispense or eject the ice it has made on its last harvest. Step 1. Reach inside the icemaker and feel or look to see if there are already frozen cubes waiting to be ejected. If not move onto the next step. Step 2. If your refrigerator has a water dispensor, see if you get little or no water pressure while dispensing into a glass. If the pressure is low or none existent, you might want to try changing the refrigerators onboard water filter. (you should be able to fill a 10 ounce glass in 10 seconds). Step 3. The tube that provides water into the icemaker could be frozen. check to see with a flashlight if the tube is frozen. If your water pressure is good at the dispensor, the fill tube is clear and you have cubes waiting to be ejected. There is something wrong with the icemaker itself. At this point you should call for service.
In this situation you very likely have a broken component in the refrigerators defrost system. What that means is the refrigerator will no longer defrost itself because of this broken component and the entire refrigerator will get warmer and warmer until serviced. If you can eliminate that the freezer door was not left ajar or open by someone in the house, then you will need to call for service so a trained technician can test for the failed component. (note) There are things you can do however to protect yourself from losing all of your food prior to the technicians appointment. In the event that your not able to make an appointment for repair; (I.e. on vacation, travelling, or what not.) these steps might help. Have a neighbor or relative take the food and store it in coolers or a spare refrigerator/ freezer either in the garage or perhaps at that friend or neighbors house. Many of our customers have also had luck with dry ice stored in the refer side until the repair can be made. If you are able to defrost the unit with a hair dryer, that will give you time to make arrangements for service.
It is very common for a range or oven to be slightly off temperature now and then. The real question is, not only how far is it really off, but is it something I can adjust, or do I need service. Great question, here is what to check first. Step 1. if you are taking temp readings from the stoves control readout or "clock" as we call it in the industry, you must realize that this is often far more accurate than your average dial type thermometer bought from the local grociery store or the one you have had in your barbeque for the last 4 years. If you really want an accurate reading with one of these types to gage against the ranges "clock" readout temps try this. Go get two new grociery store bought dial thermometers (note make sure they start at around 100 degrees, not the ones that are for refrigerators and go to sub zero temps) and put both in the oven. Set your oven to desired temp and once the "clock" chimes that it has reached its preheat 350 deg, or what every you set it too, you need to give it about 15 more minutes to balance the cavity temperatures. After about 15 minutes, go back and look at all three temperature readings. (clock, and 2 new thermometers.) If the two new thermometers are reading the exact same thing, they are likely to be correct. (two calibrated devices do not normally read the same thing when one is broken). Step 2. Now that you gave the oven 15 minutes to balance the cavity temperature and your two dial thermometers are reading the same temp, how far off does your dials read to the actual clock readout? If it is within 30 degrees plus or minus your set temp of that original 350 degrees you might be able to adjust this yourself. You will want to read your owners manual on just how to program the altering of the clock plus or minus 30 degrees. If you cannot find the manual, locate the model number and contact the manufacturer. They often have a PDF version you can download and print. This manual, if your range or oven has the ability, will explain step by step how to program your clock for the temperature difference. If the difference between your dial thermostats readings and your range or ovens clock are more than 30 degrees off, you will need a technician to come out and test which component is out of specifications. A component will need to be changed.
In this case we must first point out the potentially obvious. Many modern day oven and range controls have child safety lockout features. You should reference your manual to see if yours has this feature and look for the steps to unlock the control (if its locked at all). If you cannot find your manual, look for the model number tag and contact the manufacturer. They often have a PDF format version of your manual that you can download and or print. Most of the time however there is a small picture of a pad lock above one of the buttons. Typically holding that button with the padlock down for 3 to 5 seconds with lock and or unlock the clock. Now if you have gone through these process and you are pretty sure the control either isn't locked, or does not even have this feature, there is probably something wrong with the keypad itself. This repair should now be handled by a technician. At a minimum a service call to confirm the failure might be in order.
"PF" simply means "power failure". This can be a serious issue but often it is not. If your house, or neighborhood has had any type of power outage, or power spike by the electric company working in the area, many things in your house will need to be reprogrammed. Your range or oven is no different. The "PF" is simply an indicator to let you know that you had a temperary loss of power to the appliance. You would first want to program the clock and monitor it for future issues. You do not want to make service appointments without first taking this opportunity to weed out no issue with your oven at all. If the problem comes back, set the clock again and check with the power company for maintenance in your area. If there has been no storms or foul weather and the power company is not working near you and you are having to program this clock control repeatedly, you probably have a broken electronic component that will need further diagnoses by a technician from All-Pro. E codes, or Error codes are a staple in the appliance industry these days. Your best bet is to write down any and all error codes as accurately as you can while documenting the freaquincy they return. Some appliances give off an audiable sound. Anything you can tell a technician about the error codes will help to shorten the repair time and increase the accuracy of the repair. With error codes you will want to have a technician come out to further diagnose the problem. ( note - we are building an extensive database of error codes for most manufacturers and hope to have that available to our customers by the end of the year).
Gas cooktops are famous for having igniter issues. That is the little device attached to the burner that jumps the spark and ignites the flame. The burners you use the most tend to wear out fastest. If most burners lite, but not all or if one burner lites but not everytime, it is likely a failing igniter or "electrode". These are not simple fixes and should require a trained technician to diagnose and replace. There are other parts that can give similar symptoms. However, if none of the burners will lite and you know you have gas coming out, check to make sure someone didn't accidently unplug the power to the unit under the cabnetry. A very common repair is after someone has had kitchen remodeling done and the cabnet or counter people did not replug the unit back in. Also, you might have needed an electrician in your remodel and some changes to your power source might have happened. Is there power to the cooktops plug? Is the breaker in the on position? Plug a small lamp into that same socket and see if it lights up. If it does not, you have issues with the power not the appliance and if it is not a circuit breaker, you probably need an electrician. If there is power there and you found the cooktop plugged in but still get no spark on any burner, but gas is coming out, you will again need to schedule an appointment to have this situation further tested by a technician. (with gas appliances especially, always remember safety first.)
A common cause of not draining that people do not consider before calling for service is a recent plumbing change. Did you recently get a new garbage disposal? Garbage disposals come sealed dishwasher drain port form the factory. Not everyone has a dishwasher which is why this port comes sealed. Who ever installs a new disposal will find instructions with the product to remove the sealed port for the dishwashers drainhose. Many do-it-your-selfers skip this step and hook up the existing drain hose to the port that is sealed. When the dishwasher cycles to drain there is no where for the water to escape. If you have had this or some other recent plumbing change, you might investigate this scenario first. If you had a plumber or other installation company put in your new disposal and now the dishwasher doesn't drain, call them back. They should take care of this for free. If none of this applies, you may have an actual mechanical failure with your dishwasher which would warrant a service call to properly diagnose.
Similar to the no drain situation, ask yourself have there been any recent plumbing changes? Make sure the water supply normally located under the sink is completely open. There is a fairly new product out called a "safety hose", or " no blow hose", that basicly senses a ruptured water supply line to your dishwasher and that change in pressure activates a small shutoff valve internally at the end of the hose. We adamantly recommend NOT using this type of supply hose and realize an explanation is in order. The hose sounds like a great idea, but its super sensitivity to water pressure changes make it a regular choir and a costly one at that, to have someone come out and reset this supply hose back to working order again. All it takes is a pressure change to the neighborhood by the local water company to shut that supply line down to the dishwasher. You must take this hose off in and put it back on in order to restore water pressure again. Unless you enjoy doing this several times a year and or paying someone to do this, we recomment going with a standard steal braided hose. (in 21 years of service I have never heard of a dishwasher supply line bursting, nor have I heard of such a story.) Your final possible scenario to no water supply is the float switch or "safety switch" is stuck in the up or floated position. This is the mushroom looking cap found in the bottom of the dishwasher, towards the front, under the lowest dish rack. Its normally located on the right side, but could be on the left. If you can lift up and down on the mushroom cap and hear a slight click, this is also not your issue. This float switch cap should move up and down freely and click. If you came to this cap and touched it and it dropped, you might have dislodged it and have solved your problem. (Note - do not lift this cap up with any kind of force. It is not meant to come completely off and you could break it by pull up to hard.) Close the door and test to see if water supply has been restored. If not, you most likely have an issue with a compontent that will require technicial diagnoses. Call for a service appointment.
There are few reasons you can find soap still in a powdery clump, possibly still in the dispensor or perhaps its sitting at the bottom of the dishwasher. Things to first consider are: 1. Is this the first time it has happened? 2. If its happened before, how long has it been since it happened before? If it tends to be random, your probably blocking the soap dispensor door from opening all the way. A very common service call we notice is the random cookie sheet or cutting board put in the lower rack area, blocking the soap door from opening. This is most likely if the scenario of undissolved soap is random. Especially if you find the all-in-one packets at the bottom of the dishwasher when you open the door. The soap dispensor is activated and unlatching the door just slightly, but the load has blocked it from opening enough for the water pressure to rinse out the soap. Once you open the dishwasher door, the unlatched soap door pops open and the contents drop to the bottom. Do some testing with this and move things around. When the soap isn't there the next time your run the dishwasher, you'll know this was the case.
Most of the time this is a case of poor quality soap. A dishwasher believe it or not, should never ever have suds before, during or after the wash. If you have recently changed soaps, you might be getting suds during the load. The suds do not go down the drain during the drain part of the cycles and in fact trap all the dirt off of your dishes in the suds. Over and over again the dishwasher fill back up, sprinkles dirty soap sud laden water all over the dishes, then attemps to drain it out again and the cycle starts all over. At the end, the heater or "dry" portion of the cycle bakes on the coffee grounds and or what ever came off your dishes. Check to make sure you are using high quality detergent. (We recommend the basic Cascade powder with no other additives.) Also its a good idea to fill up your rinse aid resivore. Rinse aid works like "rainex" to make the water beed off the dishes at the end of the last rinse cycle. With the Cascade powder, you need only use 1 table spoon in the main cup with Oregon's soft water. There is no need to use the pre-stage cup, unless perhaps you are on a well and are not having good luck getting clean dishes. If you can eliminate poor quality soap, you may want to set up service if the issue continues.
A common are for small leaks in frontload style washers is hair on the door seal. It doesn't take but a single hair to break the seal of the rubber boot area to the glass or plastic part of the inner side door. The water dripples down the front panel and onto the floor. This is the first check you want to make. Take a towel and wipe the seal area of very clean and free of hair, but don't forget to wipe the under side of the inner glass door. (or opposite sealing surface). Look for water trailes in the middle and below the door. If you can eliminate this, check to make sure your drain hose is well into its drain pipe. Watch the washer when running to make sure the pipe is handling the entire draining load of water and not backing up the pipe and running down the wall to floor. If you find water on the floor, check to see if your wall is wet below the drain hose. This might indicate you need a plumber rather than us to fix the drain pipe. Also directly next the the drain is the hot and cold fill hoses. Are they showing any signs of leaking? If so, this can be an easy change for yourself, but we are always happy to come change them for you. If your not leaking from fill hoses, drain hoses, drain pipes or front door seal issues there is one final possiblity within your control to correct easily. Run a load with no cloths and no soap added to the load. Once the load fills with water and starts to rotate in wash mode, do you notice any suds building inside the drum area? If you are getting a foaming suds issue without putting any cloths or soap inside, your leak is probably coming from the air vent out the back of the washer. Its up high and easy to find. With a full load of washer and (important - the use of poor quality soap) the load creates this mess of suds and pumps it up and out the back of the washer, onto the floor. You should never have any suds in a front load washer. If you getting them, your soap is not truly "HE" despite what the box says. Look below that vent in the back of the washer for signs of water and soap trails from past loads. The fix is simple, change back to soap that you used to use before leaking started. We recomment "Tide Powder". It has been proved to be "none sudsing, HE" soap. If you have gone through all of these steps and are still having problems, call for service.
This has been one of the biggest problems with all brands of frontload washers. The rubber boot or seal will mold for a simple reason. Most people close the washer door when they are done using the washer. When the door is closed, the washer is virtually air tight. The water that is still on the boot and the small amount of detergent still laying on the rubber area will mold because the air tight washer cannot dry out. Most manufacterers now recommend leaving the door slightly open after each load to promote drying. (note - this is not a good idea if you have a light inside your washer, the bulb will burn out.) Second if you already have mold growing on the rubber boot, you must scrub this out before moving to preventative maintenance. Great success has been recorded with the product "Affresh." These are tablets that can be purchased at Home Depot and Fred Meyers. The tablets are to be put into the washer, (after the mold from the boot has already been scrubbed clean) and ran with no cloths or soap. The "Affresh" product helps promote anti mold and leaves a nice smell behind. Use as needed, but we recommend one tablet/load per month. If you cannot clean the door boot seal because it is so far gone, you might want to call for service and have that door boot replaced to start fresh and mold free. You will still have to maintain with "Affresh" and leaving the door cracked for the life of the washer.
All frontload washers have some sort of catch all trap to collect foreign items that make it past the washers defense areas. Small childrens socks, bra underwires, coins, hair pins and a host of other items can easily make it down to the drain pump. Most frontload washers have an access area to clear out the drain catch. (note - if the washer is full of water, opening this access port very likely will send all the water in the washer rushing out what you just opened.) Try and scoop, vacuum or somehow drain as much of the water you can out of the washer before accessing the drain catch. Have plenty of towels on standby for the one gallon + water still in the washer after you have drained as low as you can. Open cap slow and leak off as much water you can. Once the water has stopped unscrew the access trap and pull out slowly. You are likely to find one of the items listed at the beginning of this scenario. It might be preventing the washer from draining. Once clear, put back together and retest. If problem still exists, you might have a failed pump or other component. Call for service if this repair is beyond your abilities.
The simpest way to test this is to turn off your water and take your hoses off. Have bucket, towels and tools ready for this removal and test. Look at either end of the hoses for screens that may be filled with rust and or debri. They should be removed and replaced if possible. (have new screens on hand before starting this test.) If upon re-installing your hoses with fresh screens you do not restore both hot and cold water, you may have a problem further inside the machine. At this point you might want to call and set up service for a techical diagoses. The reason for this is because you have now eliminated both hot and cold water are being supplied to the machine, but something inside is still causing the problem.
A normal or "full" load should dry in 60 minutes or less. A good test is to put just such a load in for "timed dry" and set the dial no more than 60 minutes out. If the load is not dry or very close to it something is not correct. Having said that, a "normal or full" load is one that consists of about 4 or 5 towels a pair of jeans or 2 perhaps and a half dozen shirts, socks and what nots. People often think that just because they can jam more in there with their foot that the unit will dry as efficiently as the manufacturers designs, but this is not the case. If you know your load is about the suggested size, run the unit for a few minutes on high and open the door. Is there any heat what inside the drum area? If there is plenty of heat, or any for that matter, you probably have a venting issue. If your heater is creating any heat, 9 times out of 10 that part of the system is working. (note - some newer dryers have several sensors that can give temperature cycling issues which would require further diagnoses.) So if you have heat and your load size is correct, check to make sure that the exhaust for the dryer is not hindered or blocked in any way. Once you find the vent outlet outside your house, check to make sure that the flow of air is about what you would get out of a hair dryer. If the venting was blocked when you got there and nothing was coming out at all, you very likely have a plugged ducting system, or perhaps a completely severed duct somewhere under the house or in the attic. In this situation you want to look for a local vent cleaning company to remedy the problem. Finally if you can eliminate the load size, heater and or ducting, you might want to schedule for service.
Once again, in this scenario, you likely have a broken component that will require service from our trained team of expert technicians. However one simple check would be to look in the breaker box and see if all breakers are in the correct position. Sometimes people have seperated or double breakers for their dryer and one will trip. If you lose half the power to the dryer it will run, but not heat. Check and eliminate this first. If you do find an open breaker, snap it back over and test the dryer again. If the dryer begins to heat, monitor its performance. If the problem does not return, you might just get lucky in this situation. If the breaker re-trips shortly there after, you might have a failing breaker and might want to look into an electrician. Other than the breaker situation, if your dryer will tumble, but not heat you likely need some electrical internal part replaced. You should call for service to properly diagnose which part has failed. (unfortunately the "hints and help" portion of this site are not designed to take the do-it-your-selfer repair beyond the basic elimination process.)
Many people will inherit a trash compactor in a new or used home purchase. They might have never had such device before and few people leave all of the appliance manuals behind. Most modern trash compactors have a setting for staying in the locked position, but often the controls are set behind the door hidden from re-sellection. There should however be a foot pedal or kick step towards the bottom that you might already have been using to activate the compactor. Try lifting up on that foot trigger or step plate to possible activate a return up of the compactor. If nothing happens, you might have a broken plate trigger switch. Its what the foot pedal is pushing on when you tell it to compact down or up. Get down low on the ground and look almost underneath the step pedal for a broken piece of metal and or up under the pedal for a white or black button to push. If you can reach it, hit it once and hold for about 3 seconds. You very well will hear the compactor activate and begin the climb back up to the unlocked, unpacked position. If this is the case, you can now unload your trash and will probably need the metal broken tab that has broken off the trigger that activates that switch you just pushed. Call for parts and or service and refrain from using the compactor until repaired.
DISPOSER: MY GARBAGE DISPOSER ACTS AS IF POWERLESS (nothing happens when switch flipped)
Nearly all garbage disposers have a reset button underneath the very bottom of the unit. They are most often red in color and a simple push in the up position resets them to re-provide power to the unit. However, if you reset button was tripped, you must ask yourself why? When the power returned (if it did) and you tried to use the disposer, did it begin working properly or did you hear a loud humming noise? If the disposer is jamned with something, you should reference your disposer manual for unjamming it. This is done from the bottom of the disposer and most likely the unit came with as specially shaped tool for doing so. If you are not comfortable with this repair, or had different results with the reset button. Or perhaps you don't have the tool, feel free to call for service. One final thing you might test however is the power outlet where the disposer is plugged into. You can unplug that and plug in your desk lamp or hair dryer, then hit that same wall switch to make sure the you do indeed have power there. If you don't, you will need to contact an electrician to restore power to the outlet.